Eric's travels: Tricastela

Things have certainly changed since my last post, in terms of the landscape and the weather.

Leaving Ponferrada the weather continued to be pleasant but it felt like a change was coming. The landscape continued to be a little flat but the hills were present in the distance and crept ever closer. As we moved along the crops began to change and we moved to more vineyards as we neared Villafranca del Bierzo. The last five kilometres of thewalk was all therough vineyards and it was spectacular. This region is known for its grapes and I did my best to sample the two primary hopes once in Villafranca.

A group of us went for food and the skies opened up to provide the first significant rainfall that I have seen since the hour long rain in Pamplona. Things got soaked quickly and the rain meant more time in the Albergue than I would have liked. There are a number of different routes for the next day, the recommended route involves a pretty strenuous hike for the morning. In good weather is is supposed to be spectacular however in rain, not so much. Our hosts suggested that the road route was the best. There was little traffic and it turned out to be a lovely walk, meandering through little villages and enjoying the views limited though eh we're at times due to the rain. The last part of the 30 kilometre day involved a 750 metre ascent over about four kilometres, all of it in the rain, but still, you are hiking across Spain so how bad can a little rain be?

At the top, a village called O'Cebreiro the mist cleared for a short time and the views were incredible, and I think made all the more amazing by the realization that I had just climbed from that valley far, far below, a pretty good feeling.

Today I left the town in a heavy mist and rain, together with the wind you would expect from a hilltop. The first 90 minutes were not so pleasant but the clouds gradually parted and the valleys opened up. Because this area gets lots of rain the scenery is lush and green and while there have been many great days for scenery many folks agreed that this was one of the best.

Both yesterday and today we encountered cows on the trail. The farmers herd them from place to place using the trail system, generally assisted by a few dogs. These little cow parades might have four or twenty plus cows in the group. They are big animals with horns so when they are coming, the pilgrims just step aside. Another great Camino experience.

Camino simple

As I have been walking it occurs to me that I have not really spent much time on the daily routine. It is a very simple life out here. In the Albergue's the rustling of people gerally starts around 530am, the early birds, o which I am one, are thinking about their day, doing their morning preparations, putting away the sleeping bag, packing the final items into the pack to be ready either for breakfast or to be on the road. Generally by 630 I am underway. There are generally little villages along the way, I might stop for a cafe con leche and a snack anywhere between one and three hours of getting underway depending on what is available. Walking continues until somewhere between 12:30 and 2:30 depending on the distance, ideally I like to be where I am going be around one, then you have less concern about a place to sleep.

Once you are at your destination it is time for the all important shower and equally important laundry, when you have a very limited supply of clothes it is nice to be clean. With showers and laundry done and on the line there is time for doing things like daily journals, blogs and for some, though not usually me, a nap.

With these things done it is off to explore where you are, take some pictures and find a mas grande cerveza, the liquids are important. The next few hours will be spent chatting with camino friends and sometimes meeting new camino friends, dinner must be eaten along with he required vino Tinto and then, by 8:30 or so it is generally back to the Albergue, tidy up the pack so you only had a few things to add in the morning as that let's you leave quickly and quietly in the morning. Lights out in an Albergue is 10 pm but most are in bed and asleep long before that. The next morning it begins again, a pretty simple routine.

Until next time